Q. I heard it's lower then 600 hz. If this is true, what's the point of buying a tv that advertises 600hz?
A. Haha, yeah it seems odd, doesn't it? What it is though is an apples and oranges thing...maybe apples, oranges and lemons.
The 600hz doesn't refer to the content, it's about what the screen displays (even that is too simple an explanation, see below). So to answer your question first, things shot on film and animation are usually 24 frames per second. Traditional video is about 30 (NTSC regions) or 25 (PAL regions). The hdtv standard goes up to 60 or 50 fps.
The refresh rate on the screen is how many unique images it can show per second. In this case, it's 60 fields. But Plasma tv pixels don't just come on and stay on (as lcd pixels do), they flash. So when plasma manufacturers advertise 600hz, they're saying each field is flashed 10 times. It's called a "sub-field" rate.
So the real feature is that each field is flashed so fast that you won't perceive flicker. Movie theatres do the same thing. If they just showed 24 fps, it would flicker terribly so they show each frame 2 or 3 times (24fps x 3 = 72hz).
I don't know how many sub-field flashes you need to eliminate perceived flicker but 600 is likely a lot more than you need (so if we start seeing 1200hz, I'm going to roll my eyes :) )
Manufacturers probably started advertising sub-field rates to make it sound better than 120hz lcd when they're not really describing the same thing.
Here's an article that explains sub-field rates in more detail:
http://hometheater.about.com/od/televisionbasics/qt/What_A_Plasma_TV_Sub-Field_Drive_Is.htm
The 600hz doesn't refer to the content, it's about what the screen displays (even that is too simple an explanation, see below). So to answer your question first, things shot on film and animation are usually 24 frames per second. Traditional video is about 30 (NTSC regions) or 25 (PAL regions). The hdtv standard goes up to 60 or 50 fps.
The refresh rate on the screen is how many unique images it can show per second. In this case, it's 60 fields. But Plasma tv pixels don't just come on and stay on (as lcd pixels do), they flash. So when plasma manufacturers advertise 600hz, they're saying each field is flashed 10 times. It's called a "sub-field" rate.
So the real feature is that each field is flashed so fast that you won't perceive flicker. Movie theatres do the same thing. If they just showed 24 fps, it would flicker terribly so they show each frame 2 or 3 times (24fps x 3 = 72hz).
I don't know how many sub-field flashes you need to eliminate perceived flicker but 600 is likely a lot more than you need (so if we start seeing 1200hz, I'm going to roll my eyes :) )
Manufacturers probably started advertising sub-field rates to make it sound better than 120hz lcd when they're not really describing the same thing.
Here's an article that explains sub-field rates in more detail:
http://hometheater.about.com/od/televisionbasics/qt/What_A_Plasma_TV_Sub-Field_Drive_Is.htm
What kind of computer build would I need to do it all?
Q. My boss (the wife) has authorized me to buy a new computer. I am deployed overseas, so I usually download TV shows from iTunes or Zune to watch on TV. I also like a few online games. I have a computer monitor and I have an HDTV widescreen that I use to watch TV shows connected to the computer. What I really want to do is get a computer that is much quieter (hate to hear the sound of my fan during quiet scenes), can handle me playing online games on one monitor via my cable connection, playing a movie or tv show from my hard drive on my other monitor, and downloading large files over my wireless connection. Even though I am a gamer, I really don't feel like I need a top of the line computer. Looking to stay within a budget of about $5,000 not including a new monitor, but including some passable speakers. Is there a build that can do it all? No problem building my own. Any suggestions?
Bah . . forgot one thing. Want it to be able to record TV shows as well.
Bah . . forgot one thing. Want it to be able to record TV shows as well.
A. You have a budget of $5000 for a computer, not including the monitor?
That is a hell of a budget. You could get a machine that makes every gamer out there drool with envy by spending that much.
Also, why not just use your HDTV for the computer monitor? It is probably fully capable of being the monitor.
I would suggest one of the Core 2 duo processors, probably the x6800 Kentsfield core for around $1,300
Then 4 gigs of corsair dominator 1066mhz for $430
Then the ASUS striker extreme 680i motherboard for $319
3 Seagate barracuda 7200.10 750gb drives in a raid 0 array for about $600
A Lian-Li pc1100 aluminum sound-insulated case for about $300
2 XFX 8800gtx's in SLI for another $1100
Then a Thermaltake Toughpower 1000W power supply for $329
Let's see... where are we at here? $4380
That leaves room for a ZALMAN Reserator2 Water Cooling System for $339 plus an extra GPU water block for another $40
That leaves just over $200 for the Optical drives
You could drop one of the video cards and get a Lite-On Blue-ray drive for about $475
But that is your choice.
That is a hell of a budget. You could get a machine that makes every gamer out there drool with envy by spending that much.
Also, why not just use your HDTV for the computer monitor? It is probably fully capable of being the monitor.
I would suggest one of the Core 2 duo processors, probably the x6800 Kentsfield core for around $1,300
Then 4 gigs of corsair dominator 1066mhz for $430
Then the ASUS striker extreme 680i motherboard for $319
3 Seagate barracuda 7200.10 750gb drives in a raid 0 array for about $600
A Lian-Li pc1100 aluminum sound-insulated case for about $300
2 XFX 8800gtx's in SLI for another $1100
Then a Thermaltake Toughpower 1000W power supply for $329
Let's see... where are we at here? $4380
That leaves room for a ZALMAN Reserator2 Water Cooling System for $339 plus an extra GPU water block for another $40
That leaves just over $200 for the Optical drives
You could drop one of the video cards and get a Lite-On Blue-ray drive for about $475
But that is your choice.
What kind of HDTV should I buy?
Q. I would like to spend around 500 or 600 and at least a 32" maybe even smaller ot bigger depending on how much. I usually like to play xbox 360 on it. Any suggestions please?
A. Andrew: it looks like the other people who have answered neglected to read your question - $500-$600 and 32" OR SMALLER. Bottom line, you are not going to find a 'quality' 32" LCD for $600.
However, in a 26" you can get a Toshiba 26HL47 or 26HL67 for under $600, and this HDTV is, unlike Vizio and the other brands you've never heard of, a quality set. My personal preference for a 26" is a Panasonic or Sony, but the price puts these over your budget, and Toshiba is my 3d choice and a very good quality LCD HDTV.
Despite the concern of some re: 1080p resolution, you DON'T NEED IT until you get a screen size of AT LEAST 46" - if you are a mere mortal, you won't be able to realize any difference of substance between 1080p and 1080i/720p at 32"!!! Good hunting.
However, in a 26" you can get a Toshiba 26HL47 or 26HL67 for under $600, and this HDTV is, unlike Vizio and the other brands you've never heard of, a quality set. My personal preference for a 26" is a Panasonic or Sony, but the price puts these over your budget, and Toshiba is my 3d choice and a very good quality LCD HDTV.
Despite the concern of some re: 1080p resolution, you DON'T NEED IT until you get a screen size of AT LEAST 46" - if you are a mere mortal, you won't be able to realize any difference of substance between 1080p and 1080i/720p at 32"!!! Good hunting.
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