Q. Im plannin on gettin buyin an Hdtv lcd for around $500. i was wonderin if there were any online stores where i can get more bang for my buck.
A. Amazon.com is very good on TVs, usually easily beating the electronics stores. And they usually offer free delivery, and depending on what state you live in, there may be no sales tax as well.
What are the benifits of upgrading my graphics card?
Q. I currently have the stock version of the dell dimension 2350, and I was considering upgrading the graphics card so I can play simpler MMOs like City of Heroes.
I was thinking of going with the ati raedon 9250, as it seems to be the most bang for my cheapass buck. I only have a PCI connection, NOT a PCIE, if that helps.
Aside from reducing loading times for gaming, what other benifits will I get?
It IS a PCI connection, either that or the box picture is lying to me in the big bold letters that say PCI instead of PCIE.
http://shopper.cnet.com/graphics-cards/ati-radeon-9250-256/4014-8902_9-31139242.html#p5
Thanks for the detailed answer, Mr. Perfect. Do you know how I would be able to tell if I've got enough power for the graphics card? I know I have enough RAM, as I'm only using about 1/3 of what I started out with, but I have never checked for power usage.
I was thinking of going with the ati raedon 9250, as it seems to be the most bang for my cheapass buck. I only have a PCI connection, NOT a PCIE, if that helps.
Aside from reducing loading times for gaming, what other benifits will I get?
It IS a PCI connection, either that or the box picture is lying to me in the big bold letters that say PCI instead of PCIE.
http://shopper.cnet.com/graphics-cards/ati-radeon-9250-256/4014-8902_9-31139242.html#p5
Thanks for the detailed answer, Mr. Perfect. Do you know how I would be able to tell if I've got enough power for the graphics card? I know I have enough RAM, as I'm only using about 1/3 of what I started out with, but I have never checked for power usage.
A. There still abundant PCI cards out there:
Under $100 USD:
1) Geforce FX 5500 PCI 256MB
2) Radeon 9250 PCI 256 MB
Over $100 USD:
1) Radeon X1550 PCI 256MB (supports HDTV)
Benefits:
1) Play games at full speed with ultra detail settings.
2) MAX resolution; no longer have to play in 800x600 so the game could run faster.
3) Many cards (even PCI) support High-Dynamic Range lighting seen in HL2 Lost Coast, also Anti-Aliasing, bump-mapping, and Antiscroptic Filter, which makes games look that much more realistic and believable!
4) T&L: Transform & Lighting; this feature is usually not available on integrated graphics, and is required to play most 3D Games.
5) Decode/Encode video faster; looks better too.
As for playing city of heroes, the ATI 9250 should be sufficient, but make sure you have enough RAM and also a suitable power supply, because most graphic cards require a lot of power. I think the 9250 needs about 250W, but you can check the product box.
========================================
RE: Power Supply
1) Open up the PC case.
2) Check the top-back of the case for a box-shaped object with many red/yellow power cables coming out of it.
3) That should be the power supply unit (PSU).
4) There should be specifications written on the side.
5) Check the MAXIMUM output (Measured in Watts) to see if it meets the requirements for your card.
If you have 250W of better, it should be sufficient for most PCI cards. As for my personal experience, I have only 200W on my Celeron D processor, yet I could still run a Geforce FX 5500 PCI 256MB card that says it need "minimum of 250W".
Under $100 USD:
1) Geforce FX 5500 PCI 256MB
2) Radeon 9250 PCI 256 MB
Over $100 USD:
1) Radeon X1550 PCI 256MB (supports HDTV)
Benefits:
1) Play games at full speed with ultra detail settings.
2) MAX resolution; no longer have to play in 800x600 so the game could run faster.
3) Many cards (even PCI) support High-Dynamic Range lighting seen in HL2 Lost Coast, also Anti-Aliasing, bump-mapping, and Antiscroptic Filter, which makes games look that much more realistic and believable!
4) T&L: Transform & Lighting; this feature is usually not available on integrated graphics, and is required to play most 3D Games.
5) Decode/Encode video faster; looks better too.
As for playing city of heroes, the ATI 9250 should be sufficient, but make sure you have enough RAM and also a suitable power supply, because most graphic cards require a lot of power. I think the 9250 needs about 250W, but you can check the product box.
========================================
RE: Power Supply
1) Open up the PC case.
2) Check the top-back of the case for a box-shaped object with many red/yellow power cables coming out of it.
3) That should be the power supply unit (PSU).
4) There should be specifications written on the side.
5) Check the MAXIMUM output (Measured in Watts) to see if it meets the requirements for your card.
If you have 250W of better, it should be sufficient for most PCI cards. As for my personal experience, I have only 200W on my Celeron D processor, yet I could still run a Geforce FX 5500 PCI 256MB card that says it need "minimum of 250W".
What is the difference between Plasma VS HDTV?
Q. I am in the market for a flat panel TV. What is the difference between HDTV and plasma HDTV and what is deal with full 1080? I want a fairly large screen 50"+ within a reasonable price.
A. Plasma is a type of HDTV. I think you're asking about Plasma vs LCD. Read below for that breakdown.
"Full 1080" refers to a screen's native resolution. If you go into the detailed specs of TVs, you'll find that some have native resolutions as low as 1024x768, some are 1650x1024, and then, there are the full HD ones at 1920x1080. For smaller sets, the smaller resolution is fine, as you won't notice all the advantages of having 1920x1080. But at the desired 50" you mention, you do want the full 1920x1080 if possible. A 1650x1024 one wouldn't be too bad though, but certainly nothing smaller than that.
A cost effective and good quality 50" Plasma would be the Samsung PN50A550 or A650. For more elite picture quality step up to the Panasonic Viera TH-50PZ800u or TH-50PZ80u/TH-50PZ85u (they are better than the Samsung in picture quality but quite a bit more expensive too). The top dog for picture quality would be a Pioneer Kuro Elite, but you're looking at a $5,000 investment then (which is too high for most).
For LCDs, look at the Samsung LN52A650 or 52A750. Those would be the best in picture quality. Not super cheap, but I think amongst your best bang-for-buck options in LCD. Otherwise consider the Toshiba Regza 52XV545U. Or if you step down a size to 46", look at Samsung LN46A850 or LN46A550.
=====
LCD vs Plasma
LCD - is the everyman HDTV. It is cost effective, hence its popularity. It is also lighter than Plasma. It tends to draw less power than Plasmas as well. It has a matte finish so is useful for rooms that have too much ambient light which can not be controlled. LCD whites are a bit brighter than Plasma whites (but how often do you crank your brightness to 100%). LCDs are considered better for gaming (but I don't think you'd be disappointed with gaming on a Plasma). LCDs are sharper in SD (think evening news instead of film); this isn't a good vs bad, its just a personal preference thing.
It has problems with fast motion though. That is why you see ones advertised with 120Hz refresh rates. This does not come close to Plasma though. So they aren't as good for fast motion (sports and movies).
Plasma - they have better blacks, contrast, and motion blur. They are better TVs, but you must pay a premium for them. Images look smoother. They have grader ranges in blacks/whites so you get greys instead of clumps of black and white. The colors in Plasmas tend to have more "pop" to them; this isn't a good vs bad thing, its just personal preference. Plasmas are great for fast motion (sports and action movies).
Plasma's are glass though so are glossy. They can have reflection issues if you are in a room with lots of light that you can't control (you can't turn off the lights and you don't own any blinds). Also for SD viewing they are a bit "softer" (think more like film less like the evening news). This isn't a good vs bad thing, its personal preference. Most plasma owners get used to it and don't mind it.
They do have to be conditioned. The gasses of new Plasmas need to be conditioned. All you have to do is keep the brightness/contrast cranked way down for the first 100 hours, then optimize, and you'll have a TV that blows LCD out of the water.
Plasma myth (1) - They experience burn-in. This is BS, those days are gone. Just condition the gasses and then use it as normal and you're fine. Also, the better sets have built-in features to prevent this (on top of the technology just generally being better now than say 5 years ago).
Plasma myth (2) - They have short life spans. This is more BS. You can leave your Plasma on 24/7 for 34 years before killing it. So do you think you'll still want/own the same TV in 15 years, let alone 30?
Plasma myth (3) - They won't work in high altitude because of problems for the gasses. This is again no longer an issue. Current Plasmas can be purchased and used in mile high Denver, and above, so you'll be fine where ever you are (unless you're living in the Himalayas).
Plasma vs LCD - One important note though is TV size. In 42" and above you see and get the benefit of the Plasma advantages. But 40" and smaller and the benefits are diminishing. So if you're going way smaller than LCD is likely the better option.
Plasma brands - Pioneer Kuro Elite is the best, followed by Pioneer Kuro. But these can cost as much as a small car. Panasonic Viera is the next best and is much more cost effective. Then I would go with Samsung.
LCD brands - I would stick with Samsung, Sharp Aquos, and Sony (but only Sony if its on sale, otherwise it tends to be overpriced). Sony stopped manufacturing LCD panels, they now buy/use the same ones used in the Sharp Aquos sets.
"Full 1080" refers to a screen's native resolution. If you go into the detailed specs of TVs, you'll find that some have native resolutions as low as 1024x768, some are 1650x1024, and then, there are the full HD ones at 1920x1080. For smaller sets, the smaller resolution is fine, as you won't notice all the advantages of having 1920x1080. But at the desired 50" you mention, you do want the full 1920x1080 if possible. A 1650x1024 one wouldn't be too bad though, but certainly nothing smaller than that.
A cost effective and good quality 50" Plasma would be the Samsung PN50A550 or A650. For more elite picture quality step up to the Panasonic Viera TH-50PZ800u or TH-50PZ80u/TH-50PZ85u (they are better than the Samsung in picture quality but quite a bit more expensive too). The top dog for picture quality would be a Pioneer Kuro Elite, but you're looking at a $5,000 investment then (which is too high for most).
For LCDs, look at the Samsung LN52A650 or 52A750. Those would be the best in picture quality. Not super cheap, but I think amongst your best bang-for-buck options in LCD. Otherwise consider the Toshiba Regza 52XV545U. Or if you step down a size to 46", look at Samsung LN46A850 or LN46A550.
=====
LCD vs Plasma
LCD - is the everyman HDTV. It is cost effective, hence its popularity. It is also lighter than Plasma. It tends to draw less power than Plasmas as well. It has a matte finish so is useful for rooms that have too much ambient light which can not be controlled. LCD whites are a bit brighter than Plasma whites (but how often do you crank your brightness to 100%). LCDs are considered better for gaming (but I don't think you'd be disappointed with gaming on a Plasma). LCDs are sharper in SD (think evening news instead of film); this isn't a good vs bad, its just a personal preference thing.
It has problems with fast motion though. That is why you see ones advertised with 120Hz refresh rates. This does not come close to Plasma though. So they aren't as good for fast motion (sports and movies).
Plasma - they have better blacks, contrast, and motion blur. They are better TVs, but you must pay a premium for them. Images look smoother. They have grader ranges in blacks/whites so you get greys instead of clumps of black and white. The colors in Plasmas tend to have more "pop" to them; this isn't a good vs bad thing, its just personal preference. Plasmas are great for fast motion (sports and action movies).
Plasma's are glass though so are glossy. They can have reflection issues if you are in a room with lots of light that you can't control (you can't turn off the lights and you don't own any blinds). Also for SD viewing they are a bit "softer" (think more like film less like the evening news). This isn't a good vs bad thing, its personal preference. Most plasma owners get used to it and don't mind it.
They do have to be conditioned. The gasses of new Plasmas need to be conditioned. All you have to do is keep the brightness/contrast cranked way down for the first 100 hours, then optimize, and you'll have a TV that blows LCD out of the water.
Plasma myth (1) - They experience burn-in. This is BS, those days are gone. Just condition the gasses and then use it as normal and you're fine. Also, the better sets have built-in features to prevent this (on top of the technology just generally being better now than say 5 years ago).
Plasma myth (2) - They have short life spans. This is more BS. You can leave your Plasma on 24/7 for 34 years before killing it. So do you think you'll still want/own the same TV in 15 years, let alone 30?
Plasma myth (3) - They won't work in high altitude because of problems for the gasses. This is again no longer an issue. Current Plasmas can be purchased and used in mile high Denver, and above, so you'll be fine where ever you are (unless you're living in the Himalayas).
Plasma vs LCD - One important note though is TV size. In 42" and above you see and get the benefit of the Plasma advantages. But 40" and smaller and the benefits are diminishing. So if you're going way smaller than LCD is likely the better option.
Plasma brands - Pioneer Kuro Elite is the best, followed by Pioneer Kuro. But these can cost as much as a small car. Panasonic Viera is the next best and is much more cost effective. Then I would go with Samsung.
LCD brands - I would stick with Samsung, Sharp Aquos, and Sony (but only Sony if its on sale, otherwise it tends to be overpriced). Sony stopped manufacturing LCD panels, they now buy/use the same ones used in the Sharp Aquos sets.
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